It’s said that you shouldn’t re-visit places you’ve already been to. That it won’t be as good the second time around. That’s partly true for us on this trip, as we’ve had our share of disappointments. Not so for Florence. Fabulous Florence.
We woke this morning to thick fog, wet pavements – did it rain overnight? – and the cacophony of hundreds of primary school children – the school is oposite our hotel and assembly is in the piazza.
While we had breakfast we debated what to do today. Will the fog lift? Will it rain? Will it be sunny? Will we go to see the famous statue of David (and others) at the Academia Gallery, and then visit the National Archaeological Museum (the plan for a wet weather day), or do we risk it and buy tickets to climb to the dome of the Florence Cathedral.
The dome won, and what an incredible experience it was. Pete had previously – 4 years ago – climbed to the dome (while I opted to visit the Baptistry, which unluckily was closed that day). You’ve probably heard his tale of woe.
All the bells started to ring at midday, and after three seconds of video his camera ran out of battery!!! Not happy, Jan!!
Today, we both climbed. The queue was very long and we had to wait ages. But while waiting we were royally entertained by a duo of musicians, viola and violin, playing classical music. The first bit of magic for the day!
They only let a certain number of people up the stairs to the dome, as others come down. All hopes of catching the noon bells seemed to fade as time went by, and we waited, and waited, and waited. But eventually we were on our way, up the 463 steep, narrow, marble spiral staircase steps to the very top.
The dome was designed by Brunelleschi in 1420 and took over 10 years to build. And the reward? The magnificent 360 degree view of Fabulous Florence, slightly misty, and mysterious in the distance because of the remnants of the fog. And best of all, we timed it to perfection and were there in time for the noon bells. Pete ‘s video camera was fully charged this time and recorded every wonderful goosebump raising and tear inducing dong!
Needless to say the descent was a whole lot easier than the ascent. Legs felt like jelly but the wholehearted agreement was that it was truly worth every wobble.
Just as an aside, we met an American couple last night as we were taking a constitutional stroll after dinner. She, as have other people near and dear to us, has knee problems and was looking down the barrel of full knee reconstruction surgery. Her surgeon, a forward thinking and experimental surgeon in the USA, suggested a Kevlar implant of some sort, which so far is working very well. She is very determined, and plans to climb to the dome. We hope she makes it!
After a restoring paninni and strong coffee we headed off to the Ponte Vecchio. BLING CITY. Capital letters! Both sides of the bridge, built in 1345, now house jewellery shops, displaying the most amazing assortment of gold and silver bling. Everything from necklaces, rings, pendants, and earrings, to a Noah’s Ark of animals, as well as antique jewellery and other artefacts, all shining and shimmering in both gold and silver, with an endless assortment of precious stones to make them shine and shimmer even more. Words cannot describe the sheer amount of jewellery on display, and the shops must number at least 30 on each side of the bridge. In total contrast, previous to the 16th century the bridge was home to the town’s butchers, who didn’t hesitate to toss unwanted meaty leftovers into the river Arno, thus making it one of the most putrid polluted rivers in the province.
There are lots of electric cars in Florence, mainly taxis. They’re absolutely silent and you can’t hear them behind you.
There are lots of police, both municipal and State, constantly patrolling the tourist areas. Army personnel in full camouflage dress with large machine guns at the ready are also very visible. We feel very safe.
Shops selling leather goods of all kinds abound, (“pumpkin” coloured leather accessories are de rigueur this winter) as do their street vendor counterparts. The shops are very expensive, so the place to buy anything leather is from the street vendors, where you can bargain. Just have a look, ask the price, and then walk away and the vendor will chase you down the street, lowering the price the further away you walk.
Good night dear readers. It’s been a fabulous day, and we’re off to have dinner, and then to bed.
One final sad tale – I haven’t had a cup of tea in two whole weeks – when you’re in Italy, you drink coffee, Americano, Espresso, Caffe Latte, whatever you like, but coffee. Looking forward so very much to my first cup of Bushells tea!
Ilze x
Thanks for all your blogs – it’s almost as good as being there. Love the photos and are looking forward to seeing the coup-de-grace – Venice! Keep enjoying. Love, P & A.