The wind abated overnight and we had a good night’s sleep. Leaving Netherby Downs behind, we drove south to the Etterick River, which is at Latitude 40.  We were now at the mercy of the Roaring 40s, though today the wind was little more than a zephyr. We watched in fascination as the waves crashed against the rocks at Millers Bay, before continuing on a good gravel road all the way to the turnoff at Surprise Bay.  The countryside featured taller trees and greener vegetation than the mostly cleared and dry north.

After pausing to look at the grave of an early settler who came to King Island with 9 of her 10 children, we drove to the trail head for the Calcified Forest, which involved a 1.5 km walk along a pleasant, shaded, sandy track. “Snake!” yelled Ian, leaping backwards. I was in front, and didn’t know if the snake was in front of me or behind me, so I kind of danced in both directions. It was very small and green, and quickly slid off into the bushes.

We emerged into open dunes to see small, strange formations all around.  Not trees at all, they have been shaped by sand grains gradually calcifying rotted roots. The oldest formations are about 7000 years old.  It was quite a unique sight. They resembled meerkats surveying their territory.

A little further on we stopped at the Seal Rocks lookout, a dramatic clifftop view of jagged rocks and surging ocean coming together in swirling foam. It was quite mesmerising and we could have watched for ages. But we had places to go so we continued on our southern loop.  We pulled in at the sign for “Pearshape”, and hoped the dirt roads coming up wouldn’t turn our trip pearshaped. But they were all in very good condition and traffic free, though we still had to keep an eye out for the small grey wallabies with black faces and paws, and the large brush turkeys which strutted about.

We arrived in Grassy in time for lunch. Grassy is a very sleepy little community on top of the hill overlooking the harbour. We plummeted down to the wharf, where the weekly cargo ship “Mersey” was loading and unloading. It brings in food, clothes, fuel, and online shopping orders; then it takes away cows, sheep and cheese.  It does a circuit from Melbourne to Devonport via KI, and no doubt its arrival is the highlight of the week.  The little beach with its coloured rocks, white sand and crystal blue water, set off by a couple of bobbing yachts, was very picturesque.

After a quick lunch it was time to turn north. We were finally back on a sealed road, though we detoured briefly via Robbins Road, which was where Ian remembered staying on his cousins’ farm 50 years ago.  He didn’t recognise anything, as all he recalls is the hayshed.  This was a Soldier Settler area, and the family came in 1952 to take up farming after world war 2. His cousin Susan stayed on KI until recently, and was very involved in the community and the local historical society.

We called in at Naracoopa, the other town on the east coast. It was misty here with clouds offshore, unlike everywhere else.  We walked to the end of the restored jetty, and drove along the Esplanade. It was very green and looked a nice place to stay.

Sadly, our tour had come to an end. We drove back to Currie in time to taste and purchase some local Cheddar, fill the car with petrol, and return to the airport a little over 48 hours since our arrival.  We watched a restored DC3 lumber along the runway, then take off graceful as a bird, before readying ourselves for our own scenic flight home.

If you are looking for a weekend of R&R, no traffic, interesting history and lovely scenery, I recommend King Island.