Hop On Hop Off (or HoHo) bus tours. Some people love them, others hate them.  We find them a good introduction to a new city, and a way to see some landmarks that are further afield than we would otherwise get to.  Today’s was our third of this trip, and easily the best.  The buses here are very frequent – you never wait more than 5-10 minutes. They always stop, and are never completely full, so you feel safe to get on and off as you please, without worrying about long waits or being stranded.  They also move reasonably quickly, although Barcelona must have more traffic lights per capita than any other city in the world.  The reason for this is that pedestrians are catered for extremely well – lots of dedicated, separated space for walking and cycling, and always an easy way to cross roads, with long cycles for the “green man”.

We began our day’s tour from Placa de Catalunya, at the top end of La Rambla. Our mission was to complete all three routes, taking note of the places we want to return to for a better look during our all-too-short remaining time.  The red route concentrates on the big attractions in the centre, then takes you up Montjuic, down to the port and beachfront, before returning via the Gothic quarter.  It overlaps with the green route, which visits the revitalised Olympic village district; and with the blue route, which stops at the Sagrada, before taking in the sights to the north, such as Park Guell, Tibidabo, Camp Nou, and Eixample.  By the time you’ve done all three routes, you’ve certainly seen a lot of the city.

Placa de Catalunya

We stayed on the red bus all the way around, but will return to Montjuic tomorrow, as there was lots to look at there.

We’re coming back to visit this

Joan Miro sculpture

After completing the green route, we took a break for lunch, sitting for a while in the shade, on a patch of grass overlooking the beach. We watched sunbathers, swimmers, jetskiers, sailors, paragliders and cyclists all enjoying the heat, the sand and the water.

Olympic port, relic of the industrial past

Olympic port, sign of the commercial future

Basking at the beach

The beautiful Gothic quarter was another destination earmarked for a return on foot.  We made a short stop at Casa Mila, another amazing Gaudi building, before switching to the blue bus. Again, we rode it all the way around (apart from a welcome pit stop at a huge shopping centre on Diagonal).  The highlights were the Sagrada – my first “oh wow” moment of the trip (we’ll be back there tomorrow to see inside); and the Eixample district, with its wonderfully detailed balconies, windows and decorated walls.

The stunning Gothic quarter

Gaudi’s Casa Mila

A peek inside

Oh My God

Sagrada detail (more tomorrow)

Exquisite Eixample

Look at the detail on the window and the wall

Many parts of Barcelona remind us of Paris, with its Hausmann-like frontages, wide boulevards and parks. What makes it unique are the Modernist buildings sprinkled randomly throughout – simply turn a corner to see dragons, spirals, turrets and tiles.  Much of Barcelona’s architecture needs to be seen by looking up, and the bus’s open top deck is a good way to do that without damaging your neck or walking into something!

You have to look up

Just another Modernist masterpiece

We also saw newer glass and steel buildings, similar to any other city, in the retail and commercial districts, and the once derelict industrial, now revitalised Olympic port looks like a cross between Melbourne’s Docklands and the Gold Coast.  Throw in some quirky sculptures – every city needs a giant glistening fish as the backdrop to its casino – and the nods to history, such as Columbus perched loftily atop his Column, and you have something for everyone.

Every city needs a giant golden fish

Columbus’ column detail

Catalan pride is on display everywhere, and everything here appears in 3 languages – Catalan (which is taught in schools), Spanish and English.

The apartment across the street. Catalan pride and politics on display

Catalonia, Spain, Europe

We have barely scratched the surface of Barcelona, and two more days is not going to be enough.

Ever wondered where all the used headphones end up? On top of the bus shelters!