This morning we saw a different side to Athens; we went to a shopping mall out in the northern ‘burbs, as Ian still has a couple of items on his shopping list.  This mall dates from circa 2004, as it’s right opposite the new Olympic stadium.  It’s pretty much like any other shiny shopping centre. There were not many people here – they’re all still bargain hunting in the Monastiraki flea market, by the truckload.  Even in the nicer parts of the city, there’s still more graffiti per square metre than anywhere else I’ve been.  The Greek basket case economy is all too apparent. Despite this, there are loads of people out and about shopping and eating, and the place is certainly very lively, day and night.

But today we finally visited the number one drawcard, the reason hundreds of thousands of people come here. And it’s a pretty good reason.  We’d done our research, bought our entry ticket yesterday (as part of the multi-site Combo ticket, purchased at one of the much less crowded archaeological sites with no waiting in a queue), and headed for the secondary entrance near the Acropolis Museum.  It was 4pm, leaving us 3 hours to see everything.  We walked straight through the turnstiles.  We also had some shade, some breeze, and some gorgeous late afternoon light.  It was still pretty crowded, but the big groups had left.  So my tip is to go early or go late.

We hiked up the rough trails of the South Slopes, past the Theatre of Dionysus to the dramatic overlook of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. This famous venue has, and continues to host many performances and concerts. We saw the Lausanne Ballet rehearsing for a show tonight.

Odeon, where they are rehearsing tonight’s ballet performance

Onwards and upwards, following our audio guide, through the Propylaea, or monumental gateway, and up the marble steps with the Temple of Athena Nike on our right.

Temple of Athena Nike

Then on to the hilltop plateau, where the Parthenon stands.  It’s always strange to see something that you’ve seen so many photos of, in reality. The pictures don’t give you the context of the approach or setting; it wasn’t at all like I imagined it would be.  The Parthenon, although dominant, is only part of the overall picture; you need to see the whole.

It is also quite heavily scaffolded at its western end, and with lots of heavy equipment inside as they continue what will be decades of restoration work. You still get a pretty good idea of its grandeur.

We had to share it

I’ve never quite decided where I sit on the “Elgin Marbles” controversy. Having seen these beautiful sculptures in the British Museum, wonderfully preserved and stunningly displayed, I can see the argument for keeping them in an environment where they can be conserved properly. And now having seen the damage done by pollution to the sculptures here, particularly the six Caryatids which adorn the Erechtheion, I’m not seeing much of a case for returning the Marbles to their original location outdoors and exposed. However that’s not to say they should not be returned to Greece.

The only remaining “marble” in situ

Erechtheion and olive tree

Erectheion

The Caryatids are looking a little worse for wear, thanks to pollution

The Acropolis has incredible views over the city; we could pick out many landmarks. We worked out where our apartment is; you can see it by zooming in; look for the pink building, and ours is the dark brown one to its left. From up here, the city is a sea of shimmering white.

Mt Lycabettus

Temple of Olympian Zeus

Temple of Haephestus

Monastiraki, where we live

Our place is out there somewhere

We’re in the dark brown building centre of photo

After a couple of hours it was time to make our way down, as the shadows grew longer. After exiting, we joined the crowds perched on top of Areopagus Hill, but decided not to wait for sunset, as the views from our rooftop are just as good!

Me!

So nice of you humans to leave these marble slabs lying around – perfect for cat napping

Late afternoon light

Below the grand entrance

Views from Areopagus Hill

Acropolis from below

Elevator for mobility impaired. Not sure our insurance policy covers this thrill ride

We walked down peaceful paths to Anafiotka, on past the entrance to the Roman Forum and the Stoa of Attica, through the gauntlet of restaurants and gelati shops, and home.

Anafiotka

Roman Forum

Stoa of Attica