The ear splitting roar of several hundred motorbikes shattered the peace of Sunday morning.  Plans to park the car in town, and walk to Venus Baths were abandoned, as parking was overrun and traffic was at a crawl.  Besides, it was drizzly, dull and cold, so we decided to save this walk for another time.

We drove through the southern Grampians, as the mountains gradually gave way to the western plains. Mount Abrupt is aptly named, but it is not the end of the ranges; that honour goes to Mt Stapylton which overlooks Dunkeld.  We broke the drive with a stop at the Dunkeld Arboretum, a pleasant spot with a lake, an old sawmill, and lots of birdlife.

The scenery from here is typical farmland, with the odd volcanic hill. We hit the Princes Highway and turned right to Port Fairy, as we had several hours to fill in before checking in at Warrnambool.  We’d begun a week-long bike ride (the Great Ocean Road Ride) here many years ago, but neither of us could remember the town at all.  Today’s revisit did nothing to trigger memories, so we guessed we’d ridden straight out of town without stopping to explore.  We did a quick driving tour, as the strong wind and showers weren’t inviting us to walk.  There are many historic cottages dotted around the town.

I’d promised Ian fish and chips for lunch, and he was keen to get there, so we hotfooted it to Warrnambool, bypassing Tower Hill. To our dismay the shop was closed, the owners on holiday for the week, returning tomorrow. Bummer.  Time for Plan B. Retrace steps to Tower Hill, and head for the picturesque picnic ground. Tower Hill is a wildlife reserve. Yes there is wildlife, but there is nothing reserved about it!  Marauding emus, who think they have a far greater claim over our lunch than we do, stood within pecking distance, and would not be deterred. A close up look at those powerful beaks had us beating a retreat to the car, and an awkward picnic in the rear seat.

Tower Hill is a caldera, containing several lakes separated by steep ridges and conical hills.  You drive in past a large lava flow, and descend to water level.  From the picnic area, there is a short, sharp and ultimately rewarding climb through a saddle, to a high point overlooking a large crater lake, and the Southern Ocean beyond. Most interesting topography.

Back in Warrnambool, we checked in to our little home away from home. We are right next to the water tower so we have quite an extensive view from the living room. We have freshly baked bread, freshly laid eggs, and freshly picked lemons. Cosy and comfortable, and a good base to explore the coast tomorrow.

Later we went to see the Sound and Light Show at Flagstaff Village. It told tales of volcanoes, whaling, and the tragic story of the Loch Ard shipwreck. After a walk by lantern light through the historic village, we watched from an outdoor stage as special effects played out over the lake.