Kiama Coastal Walk

Our wish was granted – a sunny morning. After several days’ driving, we were happy to leave the car behind, and set out on foot. Our goal was to follow the Kiama Coastal Walk north as far as Bombo Headland.  Starting from the small surf beach across the road, we picked up the path and followed it as it curved around the first of several steep headlands.  We joined the crowds heading to the famous Blowhole and lighthouse, but there wasn’t enough swell or wind to create any spray. There were a lot of people clambering around on the rocks and taking selfies. We decided to push on, and come back when the weather turned rougher.

We passed the harbour and the two ocean baths, something very common in NSW but not seen much in Victoria – I’ve never swum in a sea bath. There were squeals every time the waves splashed over the rocks and into the pool, so I guessed the ocean water was somewhat refreshing.

From here, it was a stiff climb to the top of the next headland, Pheasant Point.  The next section involved walking on footpaths, admiring some of the more upmarket real estate, as we crested the hill.  Then down towards the railway line.  We found ourselves walking next to the highway for a stretch but couldn’t work out an alternative – but following the first off ramp, we ducked under the road and found ourselves at the car park for Bombo Beach.  It was well and truly past lunchtime and our meanderings so far had taken about 2 hours, so we sat at a picnic table and watched the body surfers. We realised that if we followed the beach for its length, we could avoid the highway stretch on our return – and enjoy a splash in the shallows.

But before that, we had more to explore.  Bombo Headland is the site of a very old quarry, from the days when roads were being constructed, and the metal it supplied was in huge demand.  We had no idea the quarry site was so huge, and the rock formations left behind were fascinating!  There were pillars, balancing rock towers, walls of rock columns, clefts where the waves rolled in, and rock pools.  You could wander at will, making new discoveries with every step – a real nature’s playground, and just another of the many unique landscapes we’ve come across on this trip.

Eventually we realised there were some clouds gathering in the distance, it was getting late, and we faced the long walk home.  We splish splashed our way barefoot along Bombo Beach – the nicest of the northern Kiama beaches, we thought – then began making our way back across the headland towards town and the ice creamery.  A man with a camera told us that a steam train was due soon, so we paused at a vantage point above the railway line, and began putting our shoes and socks back on.  Out of nowhere, hailstones began hitting us! We dived across the road for cover under a convenient balcony, and watched the rain hammer down for a while. We were drenched.

Luckily it stopped almost as quickly as it started. A check of the rain radar showed a small red cell had formed very rapidly right over us.  Rather than hugging the coastline, as we’d done on the way out, we cut straight back to the shops, where I rewarded myself with ice cream, for a 12 km, 4 hour hike.

This morning the weather has closed in and I could barely move, every muscle aching.  The plan was to visit Jervis Bay, but that requires sunshine, so we are having a catch-up/rest day, to see if the afternoon clears.  If not, we’ll check out some local sights by car and see if the Blowholes are blowing yet.

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