17 February 2023, Antarctic Cruise Day 4, Drake Passage to Danco Coast via Borgen Bay and Damoy Point –

We awoke this morning to a whole new world filled with icebergs and snowy mountains whose tops we couldn’t see.  We’d cruised into Borgen Bay overnight, and were now at anchor, waiting for the morning’s activities to commence.  The sky was mostly grey with the odd patch of blue.

Straight after breakfast we donned our expedition gear, readying ourselves for the first Zodiac cruise of the trip.  This was quite a tie consuming process but before long we were lined up with the other Giant Petrels.

It was magical out there as we cruised gently around the bay, getting up close and personal with icebergs of all shapes and sizes, gliding on calm, clear waters.

We saw our first Weddell seal, lazing about on his own ice floe.  Large enough to devour us, he raised his head in our direction, seeming to say “why are you interrupting my morning lie-in?”

As we were making our way back to the ship, we heard a roaring noise, like thunder. A glacier was calving, away in the distance.  We were grateful not to be any closer.

Given the dullness of the sky, it was no surprise to hear the photo cruise was postponed, so I joined a landing tour for the afternoon.  Meanwhile, Ian was off snowshoeing, in the same area but along a higher ridge.  The ship had moved a short distance to Damoy Point.

We found out why we needed our waterproof boots when we reached the landing site and were asked to disembark the Zodiac in calf deep water.  We were given walking poles and directed to follow the red flags.  First stop was the Damoy Point hut, belonging to the British. It was quite a weird feeling to step inside a real Antarctic hut, in situ, and realised that people lived here for months on end.

From the hut, we followed a snow trail upwards towards the small colonies of Gentoo penguins.  There has been a lot of snow this year, and the rocky outcrops they call home, have been significantly reduced.  Any chicks hatching now will probably end up as seal food. 

One particular penguin was busily collecting stones, and presenting them to his mate for approval.  She was completely disinterested, but he persisted for quite some time, gradually building up a pile.

As I watched the penguin antics, I could see the snowshoers a couple of hundred metres away, forming a long, snaking line of orange jackets.  It was time for me to retrace my steps downhill through the snow, and clamber back aboard a Zodiac. 

It does seem bizarre to be outside rugged up like an expeditionist, then a few minutes later step into a warm cabin for a hot shower.  There are a group of crazy people who are paying $500 to camp out overnight on the snow and rock.  They have far more intestinal fortitude than us.