19 February 2023, Antarctic Cruise Day 6, Graham Coast to Marguerite Bay via Fish Islands and The Gullet –

After a lazy afternoon, excitement kicked in at 5pm when we crossed the Antarctic Circle – 66.33 degrees south. Apparently to appease King Neptune, one is supposed to have a bucket of ice tipped over one’s head, and drink a shot of cod liver oil. Having been forewarned by Pete and Ilze of the unpleasantness of the latter, we chose to mark the occasion more sedately, by photographing ourselves pointing at the digital screen.

With this significant milestone achieved, we sailed on. Our evening briefing outlined plans for the next few days, which I will share as/if they happen; let’s just say that if things go the way we hope, it’s going to be pretty incredible!

To enter Marguerite Bay, we had to navigate The Gullet, a very narrow channel full of islands, and usually blocked by ice. With all hands on the bridge to navigate us through, we gathered on Deck 7 at 9pm, and waited for the show. And a show it was! All we could see ahead were a couple of narrow gaps between dozens of icebergs; none of them looked big enough for us to squeeze through. We glided ever closer, stopping altogether for the navigator to have a good look. Some careful use of the side thrusters to place us on the perfect angle, we managed to thread the needle, and for the next half an hour, we cruised serenely through a magical landscape. It was only a flurry of snow that sent us reluctantly indoors and off to bed.