27 February 2023, Antarctic Cruise Day 14, Danco Coast to Drake Passage via Neko Harbour –

It’s been an absolutely incredible trip so far – the only thing missing was the chance to stand on the actual Continent, as opposed to an island.  There are only two continental landing sites, so we knew it might not happen.  However, overnight we cruised into beautiful Neko Harbour, and woke to yet another stunning, blue-sky morning; and not a breath of wind.  We could not believe it.

The Giant Petrels were out early at 8am, so we were amongst the first to step onto the mainland.  Some people were photographing themselves with “7^th Continent” flags; as we’ve not been to Africa we can only count 6 as our tally. Besides, we were more interested in watching the penguin antics.  Our landing site was quite small and restricted, with boulder-strewn beach, and penguin “freeways” absolutely everywhere.  There was no particular colony to walk to; we just had to stand still pretty much anywhere, and they came to us.  We were regularly held up at penguin crossing points as they bustled to and fro; must have been a good morning for fishing!

I walked part way up the hill but it was too crowded.  Ian pressed on to the top of the ridge and saw a spectacular view. While he was up there, I amused myself watching the comings and goings.  There were skuas aplenty as well, and a lone Weddell seal contentedly sleeping on the beach, blissfully ignorant of the penguins and the people.

Afterwards the weather was nice enough to “sunbake” on an outside deck, and the jacuzzi was popular.  We fully expected this landing to be our last excursion, and we packed away our expedition gear for what we thought was the final time, until the announcement that we were being treated to one last zodiac cruise.  Finishing our video walk-through of our cabin and the rest of the ship, we dug out the gear one final time, and headed to Deck 3, not wanting to miss our last chance of seeing something spectacular.  Little did we know …

Our zodiac headed out away from the ship, towards some seals.  An eagle-eyed person up front saw the blow of a humpback not too far away.  Abruptly we changed course and headed to where we could see at least two.  Cutting the motor, we glided silently on the water, the only noise the click of a dozen camera shutters, and our oohs and aahs as we spotted fins and the occasional tail.

We quickly realised the group was getting closer; one whale swam straight towards us, looking like a torpedo.  We had whales all around us!  “Holy shit!” exclaimed the guide, as one surfaced just a few metres from the rear of the zodiac.  We had a great close-up view before it dived right under our boat and gracefully moved away.  We were all breathless, waiting for the next appearance.

They gradually moved away, and we followed them for a while, until we reluctantly had to turn back to the ship.  We disturbed a seal who dived off its ice floe into the water; the only time I’ve seen a seal move more than a flipper. 

This really was the final excursion; our boots are stowed  ready to be returned in the morning, and our Giant Petrel jacket patches will be handed in as well.   We are making our way slowly out to open waters, and the swell is already picking up a little.  Rumour has it that our Drake Passage crossing will be rougher than it was coming down – but so far all rumours of bad weather have proved wrong, so fingers crossed, and seasick pills at the ready.