18 March 2023, Houston, USA, Johnson Space Center –

Travel days are always stressful, but this one seemed to be going relatively smoothly; pack up and check out, return the rental car, check in for the flight from Miami to Houston, fly, land, collect luggage, collect next rental car, drive to next accommodation, check in, shop for dinner, eat, collapse into bed.  It seemed like the most exciting thing that was going to happen was riding the Miami sky train between the rental car center and the terminal (so much fun we did it three times).  At least, until we began driving in Houston …

We are staying in Seabrook, in Houston’s southeast, and about an hour from the airport. At first, the traffic seemed calm, but before long we found ourselves on the enormous network of freeways that permeate the city and surrounds.  We also found out that unlike the relatively polite Florida drivers, Texans show a flagrant disregard for the speed limit, and have no compunction about cutting you off as they change lanes at high speed.  The whole route was on a series of busy, connected freeways, and if you ventured into the wrong lane, woe betide you.  It was like an hour-long, white knuckle thrill ride; you had to be alert at all times to make sure you were in the right place, making the right exit from the right lane, all without hitting anything or anyone.

Just as we were congratulating ourselves for making it to Seabrook alive, we discovered we had a very flat tyre. The rental car is brand new, so we think we must have run over something.  It took poor Ian well over an hour to put on the spare, thanks to a recalcitrant jack that was inadequate for the task.  We didn’t shop or eat until after 10pm.

The alarm at 6.30am was an unwelcome intrusion, but we had a good reason for the early start.  We had an appointment with a NASA astronaut, for breakfast.  Mike Baker has decades of experience at the top level, including four shuttle missions, and several years working in Russia. Before that he landed planes on aircraft carriers, among many other exciting things.  After introducing himself and giving us a rundown of his illustrious career, he opened things up to questions.  For about an hour, he patiently and enthusiastically answered anything and everything.  We learned about life onboard the International Space Station, including how difficult it is to sleep; we learned he would happily go back to the ISS, or to the Moon, but not Mars. Space food isn’t great.  Watching the Earth from space is never not amazing.  The kids in the group plied Mike with questions non stop; it was great to see their enthusiasm.

This of course took place at Space Center Houston, the visitor center of Johnson Space Center.  It has some similarities and some differences to Kennedy.  The worst similarity was the massive Saturday crowd – lines for everything were long and chaotic at times.  Some of the displays were also similar, but some were different.  Most interesting was the actual Boeing 747 aircraft used to transport the Shuttles across the country after they returned from orbit.  The Shuttle perched on top is a replica, but the 747 is real.  The insides have been largely stripped out, and you can walk its length, looking at all sorts of photos, models, and signs.

We also liked the moon rocks – Houston houses most of the ones that were brought back, and has several sizeable chunks on display, rather than the tiny slivers you see elsewhere.  We could see what the inside of Skylab looked like.  On one of the two tram tours, we were taken to view the Space Vehicle Mockup Facility – a giant toy shop! There were also the usual movies, talks, and displays. 

Overall we thought Kennedy is better for visitors; there is a lot more to see, it is better organised and the crowds are able to spread out across numerous buildings (Houston only has one main building).  But we still have a VIP tour of Mission Control to come.

It is cold here in Houston; the first time we’ve needed winter woollies since we left Ushuaia several weeks ago.