It was time for Ian’s 4 day South Downs Way walk to get underway. In 1997, we walked the SDW from Amberley to Hove, as training for hiking in Nepal. Twenty seven years later, Ian decided to complete the remainder, from Winchester to Amberley. I would be the chauffeur, doing morning drop-offs and afternoon pickups, and doing my own sightseeing in between.
Ian will blog separately about his walk, but we began by taking a local bus from the very convenient Winchester Park & Ride, which provided a short bus trip to the city centre, and the starting point opposite the City Mill, beside the Rier Itchen. I waved goodbye, with a plan to meet several hours later.
I instantly liked Winchester. It was bustling on this warm summer Friday. There was a market in the pedestrian area, excellent buskers on almost every corner, and plenty of shady parks for picnics. It all felt very upbeat and cheerful. The small city centre is very walkable, and I began at the eastern end, by visiting the City Mill.
There is evidence that the Romans may have milled here first, but regardless of when it began, flour has been ground here for centuries. The river races through the paddle wheel, which drives the grinding mechanism. Unfortunately the wheel was damaged in 2014, and repairs haven’t begun yet. But there is a nice visitor centre with good explanations. There is also a lovely garden, and a second hand bookshop where I found a book to add to my collection.
Next I stopped in at the tourist office and picked up a map. I retreated to the adjacent park to plan out the rest of my exploration, and to eat lunch. Ian was keeping me updated with progress. At just under 30 degrees, it was hot work for both of us (but more so for him).
Heading west along the High Street, I walked uphill, through the medieval gate, and to the castle at the top. The Great Hall is the only remaining building – but it is magnificent. Dating from the 13th century, its main claim to fame is the Round Table, displayed high on the end wall. From childhood, I’ve been fascinated by the legends of Arthur, and have read as many versions of the story as I can lay my hands on (the ending is always tragic but I love it anyway). I was not disappointed. The building has many more stories to tell, as many momentous events have happened here. It was, however, too hot to consider dressing up in medieval costume.
My final stop on my Winchester tour was, of course, the Cathedral. I’m not normally big on church interiors (the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, and of course the Sagrada in Barcelona, are exceptions), but I did want to see this one. It took 500 years to build, so features many architectural styles. Wikipedia tells me it is the longest medieval Cathedral in the world. I do prefer the soaring simplicity of the earlier Norman sections. The highlight though is the Morley Library, a magnificent collection of books from the 1600s. Photos are not allowed, but these volumes are simply incredible – and they smell so wonderfully leathery and ancient.
Reluctantly I left Winchester, and drove along increasingly narrow roads to our rendez-vous point. Ian appeared right on time, and we headed for home. We have our very own Vortex of Doom – a roundabout we have been through twice, and both times ended up taking the wrong exit, despite our extra care. The outcome of this navigational glitch is that we end up in the infamous Stonehenge Traffic Jam, which Google tells us adds 18 minutes to our trip. At least we got to actually see the standing stones, from our own standstill.
dipidydoo 