Napoli

We snuck past Ischia and sailed into the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius towering over its southern end.  Naples is a very large and very busy port, with multiple ferries, an icebreaker in dry dock, and the Costa Smeralda at the berth opposite ours.  We passed the little lighthouses at the end of each breakwater at the harbour entrance.  In order to reverse in, our captain spun the ship 180 degrees, giving us great views of the harbour and the city.  With a bit of precision parking, we were safely docked, and just a short walk from the city.

As my phone had told me it was already 34 degrees by 8am, we abandoned any plans for Pompeii.  Instead we took the Naples Metro for 3 stations, to the National Archaeological Museum, which houses all the “good stuff” from the Pompeii excavations, and more.  Housed in a grand building with several storeys, centred around two courtyards, and joined by a great hall and sweeping marble staircase, we quickly realised how much there was to see, and how long it would take if we stopped to look in detail at everything.  Occasionally a light breeze wafted in through the open windows, but with no air conditioning, we had to take a measured approach and just do what we could manage.

We saw rooms full of colossal, gargantuan marble statues and busts.  One of them reminded me of Pete with hair (I’ll let you figure it out).  These were the selfies of ancient Roman times, capturing facial expressions and body language. 

We moved on to the perfectly proportioned bronze horses – my favourite.  The Farnese Bull was incredibly elaborate and detailed. 

Upstairs to see the friezes, mosaics and household objects unearthed from Pompeii, and the amazing 1:100 scale model of the excavations.  Finally the Secret Cabinet with its outlandishly sized phalluses and other erotica.

We saw very little of Naples, other than the brief glimpses caught through the museum windows, or seen on the brief walk to the Metro.  Back on board we sat upstairs, cold drinks in hand, and watched Vesuvius in the afternoon light, while ever present seabirds swooped around the bow.  Then we sailed away as the evening lights of Naples gradually appeared.

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