We left Newcastle mid morning, and headed west towards Carlisle. We had a couple of hours to fill before check in time, so we diverted into Scotland (as you do).  This is border country, home to Ian’s reiver ancestors (although the Dodd reivers lived near Otterburn.  The Armstrongs were the major clan in what was called the Debatable Lands – so called because whether they were part of England or Scotland was up for debate.

Gilnockie Tower is a pele tower, and 500 years ago it was the Armstrong clan’s home and fortress. From here they could defend their territory from English reivers (like the Dodds). Until very recently it was in disrepair, but has now been restored and opened to the public. It serves as the Armstrong Clan museum and archive, and Armstrongs from all over the world come to visit.

The most famous Armstrong to visit was Neil.  The Langholm Town Council decided to invite him, shortly after the moon landing, to present him with Freedom of the Burgh. To everyone’s surprise, he accepted, and made the visit in 1972. To this day he is the only person to hold this honour.

The tower itself has several floors of displays, showing how the Armstrongs would have lived.  Everything has been beautifully restored or replicated by local craftsmen and with local materials.  The Neil Armstrong display is on the 4^th floor.  All floors are reached via a narrow winding stone staircase, which eventually leads to the roof.  You can step outside, stand where Neil stood more than 50 years ago, and admire the views.

“We’re only ten miles to Gretna; they’re three hundred behind” – Leo Sayer, Moonlighting

Yes I have been singing Moonlighting ever since we called in for a quick stop at Gretna Green.  It was one of the places I visited back in 1978, on my first trip to the UK.  Back then, it was just the Blacksmiths Shop and a bagpiper clad in tartan.  Now it’s a whole village of tourist outlets – souvenir shops, restaurants, and a large fee to have “The Gretna Experience”, which is probably nothing like the actual experience of eloping at 16 in the dead of night.  It caters for large coachloads.  We had a quick look, conquered the Courtship Maze, and headed south back to England and Carlisle, our home for the next 5 nights.