We packed up and said goodbye to Carlisle, relieved not to have to perform contortions to park the car any more.  I dropped Ian off at Banks East, pausing to watch the mist rising slowly from the valley floor up to the hilltops. The plan was to meet at Steel Rigg in 6 hours’ time.  The day stretched ahead of me.  I pootled along tiny roads, passing Birdoswald, then plunging downhill to the Irthing River and the village of Gilsland, which sits right on the border between Cumbria and Northumberland.

Leaving the car parked, I walked west, following the Wall down to Willowford, where it crosses the river.  It was a gorgeous morning and I had the trail to myself.  The riverside scenery was a delight.  This was the best of walking in the English countryside.

At a small stone farm/B&B, the trail turned into a series of wide flat stone steps, and dropped steeply down to the field below, and beyond to the river.  I followed as it drew me onwards like the Pied Piper (though I had no plans to leap into the river and drown like a rat).  I spotted a kilted hiker, his tartan swinging jauntily.

Willowford was one of three river crossings made by the Wall, and there are substantial remains of the bridge abutments.  I was puzzled until I read the sign explaining that the river has since shifted further west.  It was my turnaround point – time to retrace my steps.  The walk back was just as enjoyable, except for the climb back up the stone steps.  I saw some more hikers, and some interesting sheep.  I half expected to see Ian, but there was no sign of him.  I had, however, seen far more Wall than I ever expected to see.

Reparking the car on the other side of the village, I stopped for lunch.  I was just packing up when a familiar figure appeared.  Good timing!  We strolled down to look at Poltross Burn, one of the more substantial milecastle remains, before going our separate ways again. At this stage Ian was on target for Steel Rigg, and we firmed up plans to meet at 4pm.

Next I drove south, crossing the A69 and heading into the northern Pennines.  I wanted to see Lambley Viaduct, a massive set of arches spanning a river a long way below.  Unfortunately you can’t see much of the structure from the trail, and I didn’t have the energy or inclination to make the trek down to the bottom.  It was a pleasant walk and gave me an excuse to eat a chocolate muffin before pressing on.

I decided not to stop in Alston, but to continue to Nenthead, a former mine and a very nice little village.  I sat on a stone bench enjoying the sunshine, until it was time to head to Steel Rigg.  Shortly afterwards, a message came through – “I’m a long way short”.  We changed the plan to Cawfields Quarry, about 4 km less distance. 

Finally after a lot of driving, we arrived at our new home in Kibblesworth, where we are based for the next week.  We are southwest of Gateshead, and the Angel of the North is not far away.  We shopped at the closest Tesco, pulling into the car park underneath massive red brick arches of a railway viaduct – a far better view than the one I had of Lambley, give or take a few shopping trolleys!  Who knew …

Notes for Ilze:  in Nanthead, the locals have been busy creating knitted bunting, which adorns a wooden fence around the playground.  Plan for the DROC bunting should we need to replace it??

We also have a very handsome and friendly tortoiseshell cat, with a white chest.  He/she was definitely wrangling an invite to come inside.  I will take a photo if I see it again.