The sound of Dover is the sound of seagulls (not bluebirds), and they woke us up this morning with their clamour, along with a very pleasant burst of sunshine.  Our mission today was to explore the Castle; but first we had to get there.  Down our steep hill, along a couple of streets, then up up up, till we finally reached the entrance.

Dover Castle is a fascinating place; one minute you are standing in a tunnel deep under the cliffs, in the very room where the evacuation of Dunkirk was planned; next minute you are watching armour-clad knights in a medieval joust.  Dover has been on the front line of defense for 2000 years, and it has seen many adaptations to warfare.

Dover Castle

We decided to take the Disneyland approach, and head for the most popular attraction first.  Warned of potential two hour queues, we made a beeline for the Secret War Tunnels.  Luckily our wait was only about 20 minutes, before we were led underground.  Tunnels have existed at Dover Castle since the 1800s, and have been used for various purposes – even as a potential nuclear shelter for the Civil Service, until someone realised that chalk is permeable, and does not protect against radiation!  But it was during WW2 that they were used as the command centre for Operation Dynamo, aka the Dunkirk evacuation.  Over 300,000 men were rescued as the Allies retreated from France – an incredible achievement. An excellent series of audio visual displays, including real news footage, told the moving story.

The white cliffs

Dover’s beach

We paused briefly to admire the expansive views over the port and the cliffs, before making our way to the Tilting Field, and stepping back in time to the 1400s.  A Grand Medieval Joust was being staged to mark the holiday weekend.  Is there anything better than lazing on a grassy knoll in the sunshine, watching grown men in full armour on horseback, rush at each other with lances held aloft?  It was all good clean fun, and a grand time was had by all.  We barracked for the Knight of the North, but the Knight of the South prevailed.

Knights of the North, South, East and West

The joust is on!

It takes two to help get the helmet on

This was followed by an educational and entertaining lesson on medieval weapons, where besides other things, we learned what a poleaxe is, and the many ways it can be put to destructive use.

Learning about poleaxes

Then it was onwards and upwards into the Great Tower, which is the heart of the castle. Built by Henry II in the 1180s, it was certainly meant to last. As we contemplated the climb to the rooftop, it occurred to us that the Castle would make a fantastic multi level sprint orienteering venue. If anyone puts on a race here, we’re in!

The Great Tower

Inner defensive walls

Medieval merriment

The Great Tower is a maze of rooms, corridors and stairways, and it took us quite a while to make our way to the roof.  The views were amazing.  Dover is not particularly salubrious up close, but it’s endlessly fascinating from a distance.

Dover from above

Our apartment is on the top floor of the house right in the middle (immediately left of the road)

We watched in fascination as the jousting knights suited up for another go.  it took about half an hour for each of them to don the full armour, and we learned about the intricacies of each piece, which had to fit like a glove.  The helmet alone weighs 6 kgs.  I have no idea how they manage to ride, or even walk.

Shoulder bit

Glove

The helmet alone weighs 6 kgs

Did someone mention sugar cubes?

My favourite horse

After we’d had our fill of medieval times, we returned to the Secret Tunnels, this time to look at the underground hospital which also operated here during WW2. We also inspected the WW1 Fire Command Post and Port War Signal Station, and learned about their vital role in communications.  We could clearly see the white cliffs of France.

View from the Fire Command Station, set into the cliffs – wipers on the windows

We spent a full day at the Castle, and were impressed with how well English Heritage ran the add-on programs. It was somewhere adults and kids could have a great deal of fun, while still retaining its authenticity. All in all, a Grand Day Out.

The oldest buildings at Dover Castle

Built to last

They don’t make ’em like this any more

Ian went for a reconnaissance walk to the cruise terminal, so we know exactly how far we have to drag the suitcases in the morning.  Pacific Princess will arrive in port by 7am, but our boarding will be at a much more civilised time of day.  We rounded out the day with an excellent meal at “The Allotment”, right at the bottom of our hill.  Ian had a beef burger with red onion marmalade and excellent chips; I had succulent pork belly in cider jus with baby roast potatoes and rhubarb compote. Oh, and Belgian chocolate profiteroles. Mmmmm.