Having relocated to accommodation much closer to the centre, we decided  there was no need to take the metro, so we set out on foot.  First stop was Isabella’s Patisserie, a dedicatd gluten free bakery with a range of savoury baked goods, and a colourful display of sweet treats.  From there we followed Ehrenstrasse, a pedestrian shopping street that led almost all the way to the Dom. 

We parted ways shortly before the Dom, with Ian heading to his two favourite stores – Lego and Victorinox – for a bit of shopping.  Meanwhile I joined the throngs of people inside the cathedral.  It’s not the most beautiful I’ve been in (nothing compares to the interior of Barcelona’s Sagrada), but the ceilings are impressively high, and the stained glass windows are incredibly vibrant and detailed.  They were setting up for midday mass.  I passed on the opportunity to climb 533 stairs to the top of the south tower.

Outside, I spent time slowly walking around the exterior, trying to comprehend the enormity of something that took 600 years to build.  I was briefly distracted by a pair of Australian touring cyclists (the flag gave them away).  They left Amsterdam a week ago, and are heading to Budapest.  We compared notes and agreed that Germany has much calmer and more polite traffic than Belgium.

Ian pointed out some excellent gargoyling on the Dom, then we headed across the Hohenzollerenbrucke.  This bridge holds thousands upon thousands of love locks – I have never seen so many.  It also carries hundreds of trains, but is closed to cars.  Once on the eastern side of the Rhine, we sat on some steps and ate lunch, watching the barges and cruise boats come and go.

The nearby Koln Triangle building has an observation deck, and more importantly, a lift.  We enjoyed a 360 degree view of the Dom, the bridge, the river, and Cologne in general.  We looked towards Dusseldorf to the north, and Bonn to the south.  Back on the ground, we came across Deutz, the site of an ancient fort which reminded us that Cologne was originally a Roman settlement. 

The city also carries reminders of more recent history, with steles set into footpaths identifying homes where victims of the Nazis lived; memorials for the May 1940 rounding up and deportation of 1000 gypsies; and most heartbreaking of all, a “grey bus”, in memory of the thousands of mentally ill people who were herded onto these grey buses and taken to the death camps.  The inscription inside reads “where are you taking us?” 

Following the Rhine south, we passed some river cruise ships patiently waiting for their passengers to return.  We crossed a small swing bridge onto a tiny island in the river, and sat on a park bench to look at the Rheinauhafen and its distinctive “crane” houses.  We also noticed that the island’s beach is frequented by naturists.

The Rhine is almost a kilometre wide as it flows through Cologne.  Crossing once again, we found ourselves at the Chocolate Museum, but we resisted temptation.  It was late afternoon and time to call it a day, so we wandered through the old town.  We paused to look into the windows of Deiters, a costume shop that has an extensive display of mannequins showcasing Carnival costumes.  Carnival runs from November to February, and is a big deal here.  Judging by the outfits in the window, it’s a bizarre few months.

Even more weird was the Black Elephant shop.  We’re still baffled by what exactly one does with the wares on display here.  I know some people like to have stone lions guarding their driveway entrance, but I’m not sure there’s a huge market for giant gorillas.  Maybe I’m wrong – but the volume of stock doesn’t suggest a lot of sales.  It does attract a healthy number of Instragrammers.

So after 13 kilometres and a fascinating mix of history, scenery, and eccentricity, we finished our long walk around Cologne.  I haven’t yet found a German city that I didn’t like, and this one is no exception.