Den Haag (The Hague) is at the northern terminus of the Metro line that we use each day. It was time to head there. We waited out the morning rain, packed our sandwiches, donned our Hurtigruten rain jackets, and set off. A short 20 minute Metro ride later, we were in the city centre.
Den Haag is the administrative capital of the Netherlands (although Amsterdam is the seat of the monarchy). It houses the Binnenhof, or Parliament. We walked there via the central shopping district. Immediately I noticed that the streets were far less busy than those of Amsterdam. We detoured via the elegant De Passage, which features a “hat fountain”. Apparently someone discovered 3000 hats in a vacant space above a former hat shop, and many of them have been displayed and given a new lease of life.
We soon discovered that the Binnenhof is undergoing extensive renovations, and you can’t get into the central courtyard. To compensate, there is a tall yellow viewing tower, which is free, if you want to climb the distinctly non-Debbie-friendly stairs. I opted to stay on ground level while Ian went up. He said it swayed a lot but the view was interesting.








After pausing for lunch in the adjacent park, where you can watch the swan boats, we made our way to The Palace. This former winter home of Queen Emma now permanently houses the fascinating Escher Museum. The admission price would almost have been worth it just for the remarkable chandeliers in each room.
MC Escher was born in Leeuwarden, and grew up in Arnhem, but it was travels to Italy and Spain which heavily influenced his designs. After living in several countries, the family returned to the Netherlands where he remained until his death in 1972. Not only did he painstakingly create and design his woodcuts, but he produced all the prints himself – a laborious task that he would not entrust to anyone else.
Escher is famous for the fascinating way he plays with perspective and reality, making the impossible appear plausible – hence water runs uphill (or does it?); stairs go up and down all at the same time (or do they?) Escher’s worlds are unique, infinitely clever, and absorbing. We spent most of the afternoon enjoying having our minds messed with.












From there it was a long walk to the most well known building in Den Haag – the Peace Palace and International Court of Justice. We arrived too late to go to the Visitor Centre, so we admired it through the elaborate gates. Palace tours are held only occasionally.
It was late afternoon by now, and the sun was very pleasant. We enjoyed a final stroll through the Malieveld, where you can spot deer, and admire the modern skyline.
I may be the only person to say this out loud, but I preferred Den Haag to Amsterdam. I enjoyed its quieter, more walkable streets, its mix of architectural styles, and its little quirks and surprises. I guess it all comes down to perspective.














The song Kashmir by Led Zeppelin reminds me of a Escher painting because it seems to keep going up and up but it doesn’t. Den Haag sounds like a great place to visit.